I have a pointer but would like to test it to see if it is suitable for holography before doing a hologram, is there a cheap device that would do this, if there is what readings from the device would be allowable. I havent got an infiniter 200, what makes this so good?
Ronny Andreassen - Sun, Jun 06, 99 11:21:34 AM
Hi Michael, the best for you is to try it out in a single-beam setup, and make a test hologram. You can allso make a Michelson interferometer setup to check out if the split-beam interfere. For this you'll need One 50/50 beamsplitter and two mirrors. You can allso test out the polarization of your laser--> spead the beam with a lens and examine the laser-beam on a white card after pasing through a polarizing filter. If it's polarized you should be able to totaly black out the laser light. This knowledge you'll need when making a hologram (in which direction your laser is pol.). Good luck. 130.67.15.250
Steve Michael - Wed, Jun 16, 99 07:21:51 PM
Hi Michael: Ronny is absolutely right in what he says. Since my discovery that we could make holograms with laser points, I really like the Infiniter 200 because I've found it to be the most reliable laser to give 5mW output and runs for a hell of a lot of time on two AA batteries. You really don't have to do a Michelson interferometic test to know that the laser will work. If its polarized, and most likely it is, it will make a hologram. Also, it is best to get a pointer that has a wavelength of 630nm to 650nm because of the sensitivity range of the films/plates that are available. The further you go away (longer wavelengths above 650nm), the less sensitive the medium is and the longer the exposure. Best of everything in your endeavors. 209.122.205.93
Todd Johnson - Wed, Jan 26, 00 06:03:13 PM
You can use a Michelson interferometer to test a diode laser, but beware of the unused beams which pass back into the laser off the beamsplitter. This light can get into the PIN diode on the rear facet, which the diode's regulator is using to set the proper output power. This extra light messes up the regulation loop and causes frequency modulation, which will make your fringes look unstable.
I ran into this problem, which at first looked like my table was shaky. I eventually monitored the laser current with an oscilloscope and found that there were oscillations present that would go away if the beam going to (and from) the interferometer was blocked. I intend to try it again with a different geometry (two splitters) which won't send light back up the laser's muzzle.
I wonder what setup Frank D was using to get those pretty fringes from his snazzy homebuilt 28mW unit... 131.225.122.15