I am interested in teaching holography to my gifted education students next year. I would like to use the laser pointer method. I have ordered the Shoebox holography kit, but have not received it yet. I need to know the cheapest way to make holograms (160). I need to know what type of film to use and the process for developing it as well. I also need to know if I can place the film between two clear glass plates and still get the hologram to work. Any input will be a big help. Thank you very much, my students will be grateful.
asli ugur - Wed, Apr 18, 01 08:12:10 AM
hi › need some information about shoe box holographies for my project.if you have please send me if it is possible .thank you very much.. 193.140.250.40
blueeyedpop - Fri, Apr 20, 01 10:53:19 PM
does (160) mean a quantity of 160? OUCH. A small materials fee could offset that. I am just starting myself, and after a batch of reasonably successful holograms, and a bout of miserable failure, I can offer a little advice.
Keep the chemicals at 74 degrees F.
I kept a log book of my failures and successes, and found that when my rinse, dev. and bleach were all 74 deg. I had much better success.
I used magnets and a steel plate to clamp my plates to the base, and could tell when my object had moved, causing a bad exposure, because I could see the magnets clearly, but I couldn't see the object.
I have yet to have a perfect, brillant exposure on film. I always have black voids. I have tried to let the film/glass sandwich stabilize, and I have tried to use water soluable chemicals to make up the space between the film and the glass( called an index matching fluid). My best success was a clear jelly used for personal lubrication. I have been told that lamp oil, kerosine, xylene and dry cleaning fluid are more suitable, but I like my brain cells, and xylene gives me a headache.
I use 1" wide strips of film to test exposures, but I make my final record on a plate.
I get hyper- anal-retentive over all of the environmental factors, and I keep a log of everything I can think of.
I put a solar cell in the place where the plate goes, and read the millivoltage it generates. I put a small solar cell a fixed distance from the object, and log the millivolts it generates from the light reflected from the object.
I use fishtank heaters to maintain the temperature of my chemicals. The dev. and bleach are in separate containers, which sit in a water bath, the heaters for the rinses are separate.
I monitored the temperature rise over time to determine how long my heaters needed to run to bring the water to the right temp.
It goes on and on.
The three factors that I was way off on were the criticality of the temperatures, my exposures were 1/2 to 1/3 what they should have been, and my objects were moving.
For instance, I tried to make a hologram of a loufa sponge, but I finally succeeded when I hot glued the loufa to a glass plate, and clamped the glass to my steel plate with a magnet. Other successful ventures have involved other objects hot glued to glass plates which were mounted similarly to the holographic plate.
one other note: I ruined a lot of plates by not masking off the edges of the glass. Most notably was the glass edge facing the laser.
good luck
Just a note, Franks book is based on the jd-2 or jd-3 processing and the bb plates from Germany. I discovered that the dev. time for the pfg-01 plates I use is 2 minutes. 64.63.88.51
blueeeyedpop - Fri, Apr 20, 01 10:55:03 PM
Sorry for the lack of paragraphs, I'm sleepy 64.63.88.51