fringe locking & laser diodes
On: Sat, Dec 15, 01 09:03:45 PM
Joe Farina wrote:
| Hello Everyone,
As I can see from comments on this forum, people are having
some troubles when using laser diodes to make holograms.
On the other hand, I have heard some success stories also.
But my own experiences with laser diodes for holography
have been unsatisfactory. I guess the problem is due to
wavelength shifts over the length of the exposure. Maybe
these problems would be lessened (or perhaps eliminated in
some cases) if exposure times are kept short, in the
neighborhood of a few seconds or less. But these short
exposure times don't fit in with the kind of holography I
want to do. It seems there are many complicated schemes
for stabilizing the wavelength of laser diodes. At first,
I thought active temperature control would be the answer
(as is so often stated in the literature). Perhaps this is
true, but after I built an active temperature control
device for the Mitsubishi diode, the results weren't what I
was hoping for. I used good components and did a fairly
careful job, but the fringes on my interferometer were
drifting somewhat when I turned on the temperature control
circuit. If I turned it off, and simply relied on the
passive heatsink, the fringes had better stability. Maybe
I was doing something wrong, but I think it's safe to say
that active temperature control is rather complicated (not
to mention expensive) and I am quite skeptical of its
effectiveness for stabilizing laser diodes for holography.
I am wondering if there's a better way. It seems to me
that if we want to stabilize laser diodes for holography,
we need some kind of "reference" system in the device which
relates specifically to the kind of stability we need. The
first thing which comes to my mind is fringes on an
interferometer. I am wondering if the wavelength of a
laser diode can be stabilized (in a fairly simple manner)
by attaching it to a "reference" interferometer. Some time
ago, I built a finge-locking device which was very
effective for stabilizing fringes. I was surprised how
simple and inexpensive it was: all it requires is a cheap
op-amp (costing about $2), a small speaker, a pair of
photodiodes, a couple of potentiometers, and some
resistors. My problem is that I'm having a hard
time "connecting" the fringe locking idea to a laser diode
driver. My idea is to use the signal coming in from the
fringe locker (which would normally be connected to a
speaker or transducer which moves a mirror back and forth
to change path lengths, so the fringes would be
stabilized). But in this case I would want the signal to
go through the laser driver to change the current going to
the diode. If there is a way of doing that, then I think
the wavelength could be stabilized cheaply and
effectively. But since I don't know much about
electronics, maybe it's not possible. |
RESPONSES
Colin Kaminski - Sat, Dec 15, 01 10:03:23 PM
Joe,
I am very actively working on a active temperature
stabilization for my diode. I would be very grateful if I
could review your work. Are you willing to share your
circuit? I have talked to people who have had success with
this method.
I am not a EE but I think to interface your fringe locker
you only need to modulate the output from the photodiode
with the fringe measurement circuit. You may sacrifice
power stability but that is a small price to pay for
frequency stability.
I have been very luck to view many holograms made with the
diodes. I have had very good luck with my passive heat
sink. I use three diodes and would not even consider a HeNe.
colinsk@pacbell.net 64.170.194.24
Colin - Sun, Dec 16, 01 12:03:10 AM
This is a web site about linking diodes together for more
power.
http://optics.caltech.edu/billgr/phaselock/phaselock/index.h
tm 64.170.194.24
Tom B. - Sun, Dec 16, 01 04:55:04 AM
A couple of links for LD temperature control goodies:
http://www.hytek.com/index2.htm (under optoelectronics)
http://www.wavelengthelectronics.com/products.html
One potential problem with active temperature control is
that tiny amounts of electronic noise can confuse the
system and make things worse. For exposures of less than
a minute in a reasonably stable environment (my unheated
basement, for example), I find that once my favorite
keychain laser pointer has warmed up to equilibrium
(5 -10 minutes) it's rock solid. Adding more thermal mass
would increase the stability, but also the warm-up time,
unless the mass was so large that it could absorb the diode
heat with negligable temperature change. It doesn't take
much mass to slow the rate of temperature change down to
acceptable levels.
LD temperature control makes sense when you are operating
the diode in constant-current mode for lower noise than
when using the feedback photodiode, or when ambient
conditions are changing rapidly due to on-off heating &
cooling in an apartment or office.
Anyway, re fringe-locking, here's some info from ralcon:
http://www.xmission.com/~ralcon/whylock.html
regards, tom
24.67.253.203
Joe Farina - Sun, Dec 16, 01 01:31:38 PM
Colin,
I used one of the temperature control circuits from
Wavelength Electronics. (I also purchased the power supply
for this circuit from them.) Basically, I took a small
block of aluminum (for the cold plate) and drilled a hole
through it. Then I took one of the cylindrical housings
from Optima Precision and cemented this housing into the
hole using thermal epoxy. (I sanded off the black anodized
coating on the cylindrical housing first.) Then I drilled
a smaller hole into the bottom of this assembly, which went
through the aluminum and penetrated slightly into the
cylindrical housing. Then I inserted the thermistor and
cemented it into place using thermal epoxy. (I had the
hole penetrate slightly into the housing portion of the
assembly because I wanted the thermistor to be as close to
the diode as possible, and not on the other side of the
epoxy interface.) Then I cemented this cold plate assembly
(with a lot of clamping force) to the TE cooler with
thermal epoxy. (On the other side of the TE cooler, I
attached a large block of aluminum, maybe about 1 inch
thick X 3 inches wide X 3 inches high, in the same manner.
This was the main heat sink, and I drilled some holes
through it for better heat dissipation.)
I am inclined to agree with Tom when he says that some
noise might get introduced into a temperature control
system. That's the feeling I got. I should also note
that, in the literature I've read, active cooling of laser
diodes is done in conjunction with a constant-current
driver, and not a constant-power one. It has been stated
that drivers which utilize photodiode feedback have more
problems with noise, as compared to constant-current
circuits. Colin, what is the longest exposure time you
have used successfully with a laser diode?
Maybe you will have better results with your temperature
control system than I did, but I am currently looking for
other alternatives. I am very interested in the new 35mW
635nm diode from Hitachi. It a appears that this diode (or
one similar to it) can be used for long-exposure
holography. See:
http://perso.wanadoo.fr/holographie/GB/samouraianglais.html 216.65.168.95
Colin - Sun, Dec 16, 01 04:50:58 PM
Joe,
I often use 45 sec for my 5 mw diode from Integraf and I
have never had a failure related to the diode. And I have
used up to 15 sec for my D&S but the set up I use with it
has had it's problems (vibration in one of the optic
mounts) so I have not been able to judge the consistancy of
the diode very well.
I have a friend who is more production oriented than I and
he has reported problems with his D&S mode hopping once and
a while after a long warm up period. He is using his with
no heat sink.
Have you ever measured the hot-side and cold-side
temperatures of your cooling system?
Thank you for your help. 64.167.151.19
Jonathan - Sun, Dec 16, 01 04:58:25 PM
With laser diodes it looks like the biggest obstacle to
bright holograms with CW lasers (i.e. movement) has a new
rival - frequency instability.
Over a year ago I replaced my He-Ne with a Mitsubishi
658/35 diode and a D&S driver. I'm using an overhead frame
system and mount both a 13" parabolic mirror and a spatial
filter overhead, therefore physical stability has always
been a concern to me. I mounted the diode in a small metal
clamping device, with no particular attention paid to
temperature dissipation other than making sure air cooling
wasn't impeded more than necessary.
However, the problems (arc-shaped banding in the real
image, moire lines in the virtual image) began to occur
with increasing regularity. The problem we now identify as
frequency shifting or mode-hopping was intermittent, but
it's regularity seemed to increase over the course of the
last year. Possibly this means that diodes become more
prone to mode-hopping with age, if no temperature
stabilization is present? Has anyone found the same thing?
My exposures weren't getting any longer - still in the 5-10
second range.
Anyway, at first I thought the moire lines were due to a
physical instability in the system. So I reinforced,
rebuilt, blocked every draft, improved the draft exclusion
canopy, located my shutter release outside the lab, and
damped every component and structural frame component I
could. All with feedback from the interferometer of course,
so I could see what was effective. Thanks to Colin, who
suggested damping and explaining how it worked. Turned out
damping provided as much fringe stability improvement as
all the other efforts combined.
The result of all this was better (brighter) holograms WHEN
they were free of banding, BUT the banding still occurred
intermittently regardless. So obviously this particular
problem wasn't movement, but rather frequency shifting of
the diode, as the discussions on this forum have
revealed.
Here's where the discussion on solutions becomes blurred.
If we are talking about fringe-locking solutions, using
feedback from an interferometer, then things can be done to
compensate for fringe movement caused by path length
movement. This is described well in the article Tom posted
above. But for frequency shifting of a diode, what is the
mechanism, besides doing one's best to stabilize the diode
temperature?
Optima uses a thermocouple device in their BTC-2000 temp.
controller. No mention of any other "frequency locking"
mechanism. The Samourai laser (Yves Gentet) specifically
locks the frequency of the diode (and they use four
different types ranging from 639 to 687 nm). If you look at
the site Joe posted above you can see the following
description:
"TEMoo & Electronicaly locked single frequency mode: the
coherence length is extremely long (several meters) without
frequency changes over several hours. We have controlled
the contrast of fringes and movement at 2 meters depth in
an holographic set-up (diff between ref and object beam):
over 30 minutes exposure, no fringe movement could be seen.
A green LED indicates you when the laser is frequency
locked after 20 minutes warm-up time."
My feeling is that temperature stabilization should be the
first thing to do, and if the heat sink is large passive
heat control may be enough. I don't know. The experiences
posted above seem to suggest that. Joe did you find that
your results were still unsatisfactory even with a good
heat sink, but no TEC?
Obviously, the laser diode (Samourai) from Yves Gentet must
have the electronics in the power supply to somehow control
frequency shifting beyond just temperature control. His
laser is "current regulated" but that is all the
information provided.
Can anyone shed some light on how frequency locking can be
accomplished with a red laser diode, above and beyond
providing stable temperature control? Perhaps we may have
to wait until the technology evolves with better
semiconductor materials, fabrication techniques, or designs.
209.90.161.49
Jonathan - Sun, Dec 16, 01 06:49:31 PM
For anyone interested there's a technical paper on this
subject at:
http://opticb.uoregon.edu/~mosswww/FrequStabi/Cover.html
Points worth noting are:
- it's robust and can be built relatively inexpensively
- the control method is applicable to any laser system but
in this paper is described using an external-cavity diode
laser
- the results given are based on using "thermo-electric
temperature stabilization to better than 10 mK"
209.90.161.142
Joe Farina - Sun, Dec 16, 01 08:17:48 PM
Maybe it will be helpful to differentiate two separate
problems with laser diodes when used for holography: 1) a
broad linewidth, and 2)mode-hopping. I used to think these
two effects were essentially the same thing (as applied to
laser diodes), but maybe I'm completely wrong, and it might
be helpful to think of them as two entirely different
effects.
In the "sliced bread holograms" thread, Tom mentioned that,
as he varied the path lengths on his interferometer, the
fringes would lose contrast or gain contrast depending on
the amount of change, and to me this seems like a good
example of broad linewidth, or short coherence length. As
Tom said, maybe this is the real cause of sliced bread
holograms. The fringes could be extremely bright, but only
at certain path lengths. When I did my tests, I didn't
notice any gaps, but I wasn't looking for them, either.
It's my guess that the linewidth depends on the actual
diode, combined with the amount of current supplied to it
(and perhaps the temperature). It may be rather difficult
to test the linewidth of a laser diode in a simple manner,
the only way I know would be to change the path lengths on
an interferometer. Nor do I know of a way to correct the
problem, short of using an external cavity.
The other problem, which I have seen for myself, is when
the fringes "wash out" all of a sudden, at unpredictable
intervals. I would be inclined to call this "mode-
hopping," and maybe this is the real cause of sliced bread
holograms (I honestly don't know).
Having an active temperature control system for the diode
might be important, since the temperature of the diode can
be set very precisely, and it helps to have adjustable
parameters. (To answer your question, Colin, the
temperature of the cold plate can be set anywhere within a
wide range. Touching my heat sink, I didn't notice any
change in its temperature. With the system off, and just a
passive heat sink, the fringes had better stability, but I
can't remember if the problem was more with "drift"
or "jitter.") If my idea of using a fringe-locking circuit
to change the driver current is feasible, this problem
might be correctable.
It seems that Yves Gentet has solved these problems, but of
course I don't know how he did it. That LED which lights
up to indicate a "lock" really makes me wonder. LED's are
used in a similar manner with fringe lockers. I wonder if
he used active temperature control to get in the "ballpark"
then used interferometer feedback to lock the frequency. I
think I can safely say that an external cavity was not
used, since such systems require an anti-reflective coating
on the diode chip, which is quite unusual (I believe this
needs to be done essentially on "special request" from the
diode manufacturer). I get the impression that the Gentet
system can utilize commonly-available diodes, which have a
high-reflection coating on the exit facet.
216.65.162.84
Jonathan - Mon, Dec 17, 01 12:58:58 AM
Joe, I think you are right about there being two distinct
problems here, when it comes to frequency stability,
namely "broad linewidth" and "mode-hopping".
Unfortunately, I've spent quite a lot of time with my table
set-up as an interferometer, instead of producing
holograms. Perhaps more than most because my laser is being
used without a heat sink. I intend to correct that. But
what is interesting is that there seem to be three distinct
fringe behaviours that one can observe.
1) complete wash-out of the fringes (for a few seconds,
more common in first 1/2 hour)
2) partial wash-out of the fringes (for a few seconds, and
roughly to the same degree of contrast loss each time)
3) a discrete "jerking" of the fringes, where they change
position suddenly without losing contrast (not talking
about vibration induced jerking - this is quite different)
I offer a hypothesis. My feeling is that the "wash-out" of
the fringes is a function of a broadening of the linewidth,
where there is no longer a dominant wavelength sufficient
to provide the necessary coherence length. And the discrete
movement corresponds to what is being called "mode-
hopping", where there is, in the timeframe of one exposure,
actually two or more periods, each with a dominant
wavelength.
The symptoms in the holograms are noticeably different too,
where in the case of 1) above, there wouldn't be an image.
And in the case of 2) the image would be dim. For 3) you'd
see a "double-exposure" effect, where there is a secondary
interference pattern visible in the film, and the virtual
image (transmission) shows the contour lines, or moire
pattern. I'm not sure, but this may be the sliced-bread
effect that some people have described.
The contour lines problem is by far the most common
condition when the hologram is bad, which isn't all the
time. About half are actually symptom free and bright. What
I find somewhat inconsistent with my observations is that
I've seen relatively FEW of the discrete fringe "jumps"
with the interferometer, compared to complete or
partial "wash-outs", but then you have to be watching more
carefully for them since they are so quick. 209.90.161.50
Tung H. Jeong - Mon, Dec 17, 01 08:35:00 AM
The diode laser sold by Integraf (LearnHolography.com) has
a built-in optical feedback loop that stablizes the
frequency. After a five minute wormup, you can make minute-
long exposure with no problems.
It is very important not to disturb the laser in anyway at
least one minute before making an exposure - do not touch
the laser and keep any convection of air around it. Any
thermal or mechanical disturbance requires at least one
minute of settling time.
We observe the frequency shift of this laser using a
scanning Fabry-Perot interferometer and found the above
stats.
Because the Integraf laser comes with a removeable
collimator, the light spread out without any additional
lens or mirror. The beam is perfectly clean, as it you had
used a spatial filter. Also, the light is plane polarized
along the minor axis of the elliptical profile. Thus, if
you know about the Brewster's angle, you can avoid thin
film interference (the wood-grain structure). 205.188.201.147
Colin - Mon, Dec 17, 01 10:01:16 PM
Here is a link about Fabry-Perot interferometers.
http://cord.org/cm/leot/course10_Mod05/Module10-5.htm 64.167.149.151
M S Valera - Tue, Dec 18, 01 12:50:24 PM
The thermistor for temperature stabilisation ideally needs
to be integrated with the diode laser. Since this is not
practical, I wonder if the voltage across a laser diode in
a constant current mode can be used to sense the
temperature of the actual diode. Since the current is being
kept constant, any variation in the voltage across the
diode should be due to temperature. Using this voltage as
the error signal for a feedback loop with a thermo-electric
cooler would ensure that the temperature of the diode is
being controlled, and not another point some distance away
from the diode, as is the case with present thermistor
controlled coolers. May be worth experimenting with some
really cheap laser diodes? 212.19.84.118
Tom B. - Wed, Dec 19, 01 04:53:12 AM
Sensing temperature from the diode forward voltage sounds
like a nice idea. I would worry, though, that the diode
forward voltage vs. temperature curve is probably
less than 10 mV per degree or so, leading to the need to
stably measure microvolt-level voltage changes
for millidegree temperature shifts. Thermistors produce a
much bigger signal for small temperature changes, which
is why they are generally preferred for precision
temperature control over other devices. 24.67.253.203
Colin - Fri, Jan 04, 02 02:09:22 AM
I am looking for a thermistor and the only spec I have for
it is 10K at 25C. Is that enough information to order one?
Also what is the best way to mount it? Thermal adhesive?
Thermal compound? Duct tape? :-) 64.170.193.209
Tom B. - Fri, Jan 04, 02 11:40:49 PM
Very likely that's all the info you need - 10K is
a common value for NTC (negative temperature
coefficient) thermistors - meaning the resistance
goes down as temperature increases. Radio Shack
sells one with a temperature vs. resistance table
printed on the back of the bubble pack, but you
can easily calibrate one yourself with a thermometer
and ohmmeter. Digi-Key has some nice small ones made
by Keystone Thermometrics.
Re mounting, you want the thermistor well coupled
to the thing you want to measure, and well insulated
from the ambient air. The fat leads are good conductors,
so you don't want them sticking up in the air. My usual
practice has been to trim the leads short, attach vey
thin wires (wire-wrap type wires) to the lead stubs, then
bury the whole thing against the object (or better yet into
a hole drilled in the object) in a blob of thermal epoxy
with just the thin wires sticking out. Top with a chunk of
foam insulation to keep stray air currents off the
thermistor blob and wires. 24.67.253.203
paul - Fri, Oct 25, 02 12:12:44 PM
A large battery provides the best constant current source.
Phase change materials such as low boiling solvents
(pentane) or low melting materials such as ice provide very
tight passive temperature control. For example all the ice
must melt before the water changes temperature.
Light emitting diodes much more efficent and have less
noise at lower temperatures. I assume this would be true
for diode lasers as well
158.252.208.18
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