fringe locking & laser diodes

On: Sat, Dec 15, 01 09:03:45 PM

Joe Farina wrote:

Hello Everyone, As I can see from comments on this forum, people are having some troubles when using laser diodes to make holograms. On the other hand, I have heard some success stories also. But my own experiences with laser diodes for holography have been unsatisfactory. I guess the problem is due to wavelength shifts over the length of the exposure. Maybe these problems would be lessened (or perhaps eliminated in some cases) if exposure times are kept short, in the neighborhood of a few seconds or less. But these short exposure times don't fit in with the kind of holography I want to do. It seems there are many complicated schemes for stabilizing the wavelength of laser diodes. At first, I thought active temperature control would be the answer (as is so often stated in the literature). Perhaps this is true, but after I built an active temperature control device for the Mitsubishi diode, the results weren't what I was hoping for. I used good components and did a fairly careful job, but the fringes on my interferometer were drifting somewhat when I turned on the temperature control circuit. If I turned it off, and simply relied on the passive heatsink, the fringes had better stability. Maybe I was doing something wrong, but I think it's safe to say that active temperature control is rather complicated (not to mention expensive) and I am quite skeptical of its effectiveness for stabilizing laser diodes for holography. I am wondering if there's a better way. It seems to me that if we want to stabilize laser diodes for holography, we need some kind of "reference" system in the device which relates specifically to the kind of stability we need. The first thing which comes to my mind is fringes on an interferometer. I am wondering if the wavelength of a laser diode can be stabilized (in a fairly simple manner) by attaching it to a "reference" interferometer. Some time ago, I built a finge-locking device which was very effective for stabilizing fringes. I was surprised how simple and inexpensive it was: all it requires is a cheap op-amp (costing about $2), a small speaker, a pair of photodiodes, a couple of potentiometers, and some resistors. My problem is that I'm having a hard time "connecting" the fringe locking idea to a laser diode driver. My idea is to use the signal coming in from the fringe locker (which would normally be connected to a speaker or transducer which moves a mirror back and forth to change path lengths, so the fringes would be stabilized). But in this case I would want the signal to go through the laser driver to change the current going to the diode. If there is a way of doing that, then I think the wavelength could be stabilized cheaply and effectively. But since I don't know much about electronics, maybe it's not possible.

RESPONSES

Colin Kaminski - Sat, Dec 15, 01 10:03:23 PM

Joe, I am very actively working on a active temperature stabilization for my diode. I would be very grateful if I could review your work. Are you willing to share your circuit? I have talked to people who have had success with this method. I am not a EE but I think to interface your fringe locker you only need to modulate the output from the photodiode with the fringe measurement circuit. You may sacrifice power stability but that is a small price to pay for frequency stability. I have been very luck to view many holograms made with the diodes. I have had very good luck with my passive heat sink. I use three diodes and would not even consider a HeNe. colinsk@pacbell.net 64.170.194.24

Colin - Sun, Dec 16, 01 12:03:10 AM
This is a web site about linking diodes together for more power.

http://optics.caltech.edu/billgr/phaselock/phaselock/index.h tm 64.170.194.24

Tom B. - Sun, Dec 16, 01 04:55:04 AM

A couple of links for LD temperature control goodies: http://www.hytek.com/index2.htm (under optoelectronics) http://www.wavelengthelectronics.com/products.html One potential problem with active temperature control is that tiny amounts of electronic noise can confuse the system and make things worse. For exposures of less than a minute in a reasonably stable environment (my unheated basement, for example), I find that once my favorite keychain laser pointer has warmed up to equilibrium (5 -10 minutes) it's rock solid. Adding more thermal mass would increase the stability, but also the warm-up time, unless the mass was so large that it could absorb the diode heat with negligable temperature change. It doesn't take much mass to slow the rate of temperature change down to acceptable levels. LD temperature control makes sense when you are operating the diode in constant-current mode for lower noise than when using the feedback photodiode, or when ambient conditions are changing rapidly due to on-off heating & cooling in an apartment or office. Anyway, re fringe-locking, here's some info from ralcon: http://www.xmission.com/~ralcon/whylock.html regards, tom 24.67.253.203

Joe Farina - Sun, Dec 16, 01 01:31:38 PM

Colin, I used one of the temperature control circuits from Wavelength Electronics. (I also purchased the power supply for this circuit from them.) Basically, I took a small block of aluminum (for the cold plate) and drilled a hole through it. Then I took one of the cylindrical housings from Optima Precision and cemented this housing into the hole using thermal epoxy. (I sanded off the black anodized coating on the cylindrical housing first.) Then I drilled a smaller hole into the bottom of this assembly, which went through the aluminum and penetrated slightly into the cylindrical housing. Then I inserted the thermistor and cemented it into place using thermal epoxy. (I had the hole penetrate slightly into the housing portion of the assembly because I wanted the thermistor to be as close to the diode as possible, and not on the other side of the epoxy interface.) Then I cemented this cold plate assembly (with a lot of clamping force) to the TE cooler with thermal epoxy. (On the other side of the TE cooler, I attached a large block of aluminum, maybe about 1 inch thick X 3 inches wide X 3 inches high, in the same manner. This was the main heat sink, and I drilled some holes through it for better heat dissipation.) I am inclined to agree with Tom when he says that some noise might get introduced into a temperature control system. That's the feeling I got. I should also note that, in the literature I've read, active cooling of laser diodes is done in conjunction with a constant-current driver, and not a constant-power one. It has been stated that drivers which utilize photodiode feedback have more problems with noise, as compared to constant-current circuits. Colin, what is the longest exposure time you have used successfully with a laser diode? Maybe you will have better results with your temperature control system than I did, but I am currently looking for other alternatives. I am very interested in the new 35mW 635nm diode from Hitachi. It a appears that this diode (or one similar to it) can be used for long-exposure holography. See: http://perso.wanadoo.fr/holographie/GB/samouraianglais.html 216.65.168.95

Colin - Sun, Dec 16, 01 04:50:58 PM

Joe, I often use 45 sec for my 5 mw diode from Integraf and I have never had a failure related to the diode. And I have used up to 15 sec for my D&S but the set up I use with it has had it's problems (vibration in one of the optic mounts) so I have not been able to judge the consistancy of the diode very well. I have a friend who is more production oriented than I and he has reported problems with his D&S mode hopping once and a while after a long warm up period. He is using his with no heat sink. Have you ever measured the hot-side and cold-side temperatures of your cooling system? Thank you for your help. 64.167.151.19

Jonathan - Sun, Dec 16, 01 04:58:25 PM
With laser diodes it looks like the biggest obstacle to bright holograms with CW lasers (i.e. movement) has a new rival - frequency instability.

Over a year ago I replaced my He-Ne with a Mitsubishi 658/35 diode and a D&S driver. I'm using an overhead frame system and mount both a 13" parabolic mirror and a spatial filter overhead, therefore physical stability has always been a concern to me. I mounted the diode in a small metal clamping device, with no particular attention paid to temperature dissipation other than making sure air cooling wasn't impeded more than necessary.

However, the problems (arc-shaped banding in the real image, moire lines in the virtual image) began to occur with increasing regularity. The problem we now identify as frequency shifting or mode-hopping was intermittent, but it's regularity seemed to increase over the course of the last year. Possibly this means that diodes become more prone to mode-hopping with age, if no temperature stabilization is present? Has anyone found the same thing? My exposures weren't getting any longer - still in the 5-10 second range.

Anyway, at first I thought the moire lines were due to a physical instability in the system. So I reinforced, rebuilt, blocked every draft, improved the draft exclusion canopy, located my shutter release outside the lab, and damped every component and structural frame component I could. All with feedback from the interferometer of course, so I could see what was effective. Thanks to Colin, who suggested damping and explaining how it worked. Turned out damping provided as much fringe stability improvement as all the other efforts combined.

The result of all this was better (brighter) holograms WHEN they were free of banding, BUT the banding still occurred intermittently regardless. So obviously this particular problem wasn't movement, but rather frequency shifting of the diode, as the discussions on this forum have revealed.

Here's where the discussion on solutions becomes blurred. If we are talking about fringe-locking solutions, using feedback from an interferometer, then things can be done to compensate for fringe movement caused by path length movement. This is described well in the article Tom posted above. But for frequency shifting of a diode, what is the mechanism, besides doing one's best to stabilize the diode temperature?

Optima uses a thermocouple device in their BTC-2000 temp. controller. No mention of any other "frequency locking" mechanism. The Samourai laser (Yves Gentet) specifically locks the frequency of the diode (and they use four different types ranging from 639 to 687 nm). If you look at the site Joe posted above you can see the following description:

"TEMoo & Electronicaly locked single frequency mode: the coherence length is extremely long (several meters) without frequency changes over several hours. We have controlled the contrast of fringes and movement at 2 meters depth in an holographic set-up (diff between ref and object beam): over 30 minutes exposure, no fringe movement could be seen. A green LED indicates you when the laser is frequency locked after 20 minutes warm-up time."

My feeling is that temperature stabilization should be the first thing to do, and if the heat sink is large passive heat control may be enough. I don't know. The experiences posted above seem to suggest that. Joe did you find that your results were still unsatisfactory even with a good heat sink, but no TEC?

Obviously, the laser diode (Samourai) from Yves Gentet must have the electronics in the power supply to somehow control frequency shifting beyond just temperature control. His laser is "current regulated" but that is all the information provided.

Can anyone shed some light on how frequency locking can be accomplished with a red laser diode, above and beyond providing stable temperature control? Perhaps we may have to wait until the technology evolves with better semiconductor materials, fabrication techniques, or designs. 209.90.161.49

Jonathan - Sun, Dec 16, 01 06:49:31 PM
For anyone interested there's a technical paper on this subject at:
http://opticb.uoregon.edu/~mosswww/FrequStabi/Cover.html

Points worth noting are:
- it's robust and can be built relatively inexpensively
- the control method is applicable to any laser system but in this paper is described using an external-cavity diode laser
- the results given are based on using "thermo-electric temperature stabilization to better than 10 mK" 209.90.161.142

Joe Farina - Sun, Dec 16, 01 08:17:48 PM

Maybe it will be helpful to differentiate two separate problems with laser diodes when used for holography: 1) a broad linewidth, and 2)mode-hopping. I used to think these two effects were essentially the same thing (as applied to laser diodes), but maybe I'm completely wrong, and it might be helpful to think of them as two entirely different effects. In the "sliced bread holograms" thread, Tom mentioned that, as he varied the path lengths on his interferometer, the fringes would lose contrast or gain contrast depending on the amount of change, and to me this seems like a good example of broad linewidth, or short coherence length. As Tom said, maybe this is the real cause of sliced bread holograms. The fringes could be extremely bright, but only at certain path lengths. When I did my tests, I didn't notice any gaps, but I wasn't looking for them, either. It's my guess that the linewidth depends on the actual diode, combined with the amount of current supplied to it (and perhaps the temperature). It may be rather difficult to test the linewidth of a laser diode in a simple manner, the only way I know would be to change the path lengths on an interferometer. Nor do I know of a way to correct the problem, short of using an external cavity. The other problem, which I have seen for myself, is when the fringes "wash out" all of a sudden, at unpredictable intervals. I would be inclined to call this "mode- hopping," and maybe this is the real cause of sliced bread holograms (I honestly don't know). Having an active temperature control system for the diode might be important, since the temperature of the diode can be set very precisely, and it helps to have adjustable parameters. (To answer your question, Colin, the temperature of the cold plate can be set anywhere within a wide range. Touching my heat sink, I didn't notice any change in its temperature. With the system off, and just a passive heat sink, the fringes had better stability, but I can't remember if the problem was more with "drift" or "jitter.") If my idea of using a fringe-locking circuit to change the driver current is feasible, this problem might be correctable. It seems that Yves Gentet has solved these problems, but of course I don't know how he did it. That LED which lights up to indicate a "lock" really makes me wonder. LED's are used in a similar manner with fringe lockers. I wonder if he used active temperature control to get in the "ballpark" then used interferometer feedback to lock the frequency. I think I can safely say that an external cavity was not used, since such systems require an anti-reflective coating on the diode chip, which is quite unusual (I believe this needs to be done essentially on "special request" from the diode manufacturer). I get the impression that the Gentet system can utilize commonly-available diodes, which have a high-reflection coating on the exit facet. 216.65.162.84

Jonathan - Mon, Dec 17, 01 12:58:58 AM
Joe, I think you are right about there being two distinct problems here, when it comes to frequency stability, namely "broad linewidth" and "mode-hopping".

Unfortunately, I've spent quite a lot of time with my table set-up as an interferometer, instead of producing holograms. Perhaps more than most because my laser is being used without a heat sink. I intend to correct that. But what is interesting is that there seem to be three distinct fringe behaviours that one can observe.
1) complete wash-out of the fringes (for a few seconds, more common in first 1/2 hour)
2) partial wash-out of the fringes (for a few seconds, and roughly to the same degree of contrast loss each time)
3) a discrete "jerking" of the fringes, where they change position suddenly without losing contrast (not talking about vibration induced jerking - this is quite different)

I offer a hypothesis. My feeling is that the "wash-out" of the fringes is a function of a broadening of the linewidth, where there is no longer a dominant wavelength sufficient to provide the necessary coherence length. And the discrete movement corresponds to what is being called "mode- hopping", where there is, in the timeframe of one exposure, actually two or more periods, each with a dominant wavelength.

The symptoms in the holograms are noticeably different too, where in the case of 1) above, there wouldn't be an image. And in the case of 2) the image would be dim. For 3) you'd see a "double-exposure" effect, where there is a secondary interference pattern visible in the film, and the virtual image (transmission) shows the contour lines, or moire pattern. I'm not sure, but this may be the sliced-bread effect that some people have described.

The contour lines problem is by far the most common condition when the hologram is bad, which isn't all the time. About half are actually symptom free and bright. What I find somewhat inconsistent with my observations is that I've seen relatively FEW of the discrete fringe "jumps" with the interferometer, compared to complete or partial "wash-outs", but then you have to be watching more carefully for them since they are so quick. 209.90.161.50

Tung H. Jeong - Mon, Dec 17, 01 08:35:00 AM

The diode laser sold by Integraf (LearnHolography.com) has a built-in optical feedback loop that stablizes the frequency. After a five minute wormup, you can make minute- long exposure with no problems. It is very important not to disturb the laser in anyway at least one minute before making an exposure - do not touch the laser and keep any convection of air around it. Any thermal or mechanical disturbance requires at least one minute of settling time. We observe the frequency shift of this laser using a scanning Fabry-Perot interferometer and found the above stats. Because the Integraf laser comes with a removeable collimator, the light spread out without any additional lens or mirror. The beam is perfectly clean, as it you had used a spatial filter. Also, the light is plane polarized along the minor axis of the elliptical profile. Thus, if you know about the Brewster's angle, you can avoid thin film interference (the wood-grain structure). 205.188.201.147

Colin - Mon, Dec 17, 01 10:01:16 PM

Here is a link about Fabry-Perot interferometers. http://cord.org/cm/leot/course10_Mod05/Module10-5.htm 64.167.149.151

M S Valera - Tue, Dec 18, 01 12:50:24 PM

The thermistor for temperature stabilisation ideally needs to be integrated with the diode laser. Since this is not practical, I wonder if the voltage across a laser diode in a constant current mode can be used to sense the temperature of the actual diode. Since the current is being kept constant, any variation in the voltage across the diode should be due to temperature. Using this voltage as the error signal for a feedback loop with a thermo-electric cooler would ensure that the temperature of the diode is being controlled, and not another point some distance away from the diode, as is the case with present thermistor controlled coolers. May be worth experimenting with some really cheap laser diodes? 212.19.84.118

Tom B. - Wed, Dec 19, 01 04:53:12 AM

Sensing temperature from the diode forward voltage sounds like a nice idea. I would worry, though, that the diode forward voltage vs. temperature curve is probably less than 10 mV per degree or so, leading to the need to stably measure microvolt-level voltage changes for millidegree temperature shifts. Thermistors produce a much bigger signal for small temperature changes, which is why they are generally preferred for precision temperature control over other devices. 24.67.253.203

Colin - Fri, Jan 04, 02 02:09:22 AM

I am looking for a thermistor and the only spec I have for it is 10K at 25C. Is that enough information to order one? Also what is the best way to mount it? Thermal adhesive? Thermal compound? Duct tape? :-) 64.170.193.209

Tom B. - Fri, Jan 04, 02 11:40:49 PM

Very likely that's all the info you need - 10K is a common value for NTC (negative temperature coefficient) thermistors - meaning the resistance goes down as temperature increases. Radio Shack sells one with a temperature vs. resistance table printed on the back of the bubble pack, but you can easily calibrate one yourself with a thermometer and ohmmeter. Digi-Key has some nice small ones made by Keystone Thermometrics. Re mounting, you want the thermistor well coupled to the thing you want to measure, and well insulated from the ambient air. The fat leads are good conductors, so you don't want them sticking up in the air. My usual practice has been to trim the leads short, attach vey thin wires (wire-wrap type wires) to the lead stubs, then bury the whole thing against the object (or better yet into a hole drilled in the object) in a blob of thermal epoxy with just the thin wires sticking out. Top with a chunk of foam insulation to keep stray air currents off the thermistor blob and wires. 24.67.253.203

paul - Fri, Oct 25, 02 12:12:44 PM

A large battery provides the best constant current source. Phase change materials such as low boiling solvents (pentane) or low melting materials such as ice provide very tight passive temperature control. For example all the ice must melt before the water changes temperature. Light emitting diodes much more efficent and have less noise at lower temperatures. I assume this would be true for diode lasers as well 158.252.208.18


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