Equipment Help

On: Mon, Jan 13, 03 12:10:24 AM

Nicholas Piano wrote:

First of all I would like to say what a great forum this is. I have learned a lot just looking through the archived posts. I am a beginner in holography and so far I have consructed an isolation table as well as making 19 mirror/lens holders. I used the guide at to build good solid stands from aluminum, and I have to say they came out better than expected. Now my questions come in the department of laser, mirrors, and lenses. I made my table to the demintions of 4' x 6'. I want to build a good quality system for making multibeam holigrams. I also want to allow for making larger holograms and not limiting myself to a 2" x 2" setup. What power laser do I need to get quality images from a multi-beam setup? Should I use Ne-he or diode? What are the best options for the 300 - 600 dollar range? I know the mirrors need to be front surface mirrors, but when I looked on edmund optics they had 1/4 wave, 1/2 wave ect. What are the exact specs for the mirrors I need? Do I need to spend a lot on expensive mirrors or will the 6" x 7" FSM for 12.00 be ok? Do you have to make a transmition hologram and then the H1 H2 set-up to get a white light reflection hologram? It seems as though everythig I read says to do this but doesnt say why. Thanks for the help, Nick


Colin Kaminski - Wed, Jan 15, 03 05:06:41 AM

I would buy the laser from Integraf (In fact I got mine back out tonight and made an exposure with it). It is only 5mw but for $35 it is a great little laser. If you build a stable table you can make 4x5 holograms easily with only 5mw. I would use the cheap mirrors for a while. Keeping expensive mirrors clean is a lesson best learned on cheap mirrors. Then when you have some money get some dielectric coated mirrors. The are the best in my opinion. You can make single beam reflection and split beam reflection holograms without using a master. The Holography Handbook shows both set ups. The main reasons to use a transmission master is to allow you to move the film plane into the middle of the object and to have more control over the light levels. I took some pictures of my table and have them at: Perhaps they would be of help.

Tom B. - Sun, Jan 19, 03 06:24:32 AM

To amplify Colin's comment's re reflection holograms, blurring gets quite bad as the object gets more distant from the film plane, (more than one or two inches) but when doing an H1-H2 transfer, you can move the object image right into the film plane to reduce blurring. Also, the H2 transfer gives you a second chance to adjust the object vs. reference lighting ratio - usuually objects are too dim to make a bright hologram in a single-beam setup, but if the beam ratio is adjusted on the second exposure the final image can be made brighter.

Use this form to add your comments to the current forum entry above
Your Name:
The Text...

HTML, or
Plain text

Action or

| Main Index | Reload | Help? |